CRABS AND COMRADES
Breakfast this morning was a buffet at the hotel, which felt pretty much like any other buffet in a resort that you could imagine in Miami, Vegas, or Cancun; a bunch of overweight Anglos being served by a Hispanic work crew.
Not that I had much time anyway, but I was unable to get onto the Internet. I only made a half-assed attempt at it though as I found that I really wasn’t missing my cellphone, emails, or texts. I wasn’t here to stay connected to a virtual world, I was here to ride, meet people, see, smell, hear and taste in a real world, one that was a world away from my own.
Our ride today took us along the beautiful southern coast of Cuba. But as they say, “there are no free lunches,” and we had to buck another headwind for at least part of the trip. That was fine with me, as I would rather deal with a headwind along the Cuban shoreline, than be going downhill with a tailwind at my back riding through the streets of LA. If you’d like to compare for yourself, click here.
After a few kilometers we turned and lost the headwind. The road here also became flatter. But the improved road conditions didn’t do much to help the land crabs that were squashed on top of the pavement. They lived across the road from the shore and had to survive two trips across it. Once to get to the shore to lay their eggs, and then once again to return. Darwinism had found its way to this remote corner of the world, and the highway was littered with either crab body parts, or completely flattened “Highway Doilies.”
Not that I had much time anyway, but I was unable to get onto the Internet. I only made a half-assed attempt at it though as I found that I really wasn’t missing my cellphone, emails, or texts. I wasn’t here to stay connected to a virtual world, I was here to ride, meet people, see, smell, hear and taste in a real world, one that was a world away from my own.
Our ride today took us along the beautiful southern coast of Cuba. But as they say, “there are no free lunches,” and we had to buck another headwind for at least part of the trip. That was fine with me, as I would rather deal with a headwind along the Cuban shoreline, than be going downhill with a tailwind at my back riding through the streets of LA. If you’d like to compare for yourself, click here.
After a few kilometers we turned and lost the headwind. The road here also became flatter. But the improved road conditions didn’t do much to help the land crabs that were squashed on top of the pavement. They lived across the road from the shore and had to survive two trips across it. Once to get to the shore to lay their eggs, and then once again to return. Darwinism had found its way to this remote corner of the world, and the highway was littered with either crab body parts, or completely flattened “Highway Doilies.”
We passed a prawn farm next to the road before stopping at a casa where the owner served us fresh coconut chopped open with a machete. Before long several in our group rode up and began taking in the treat, as well as a hen and her chicks who were more than happy to pick up the crumbs.
Next to the casa was a makeshift memorial to several Cuban agents who had snuck into the US and infiltrated an anti-Castro group in Florida. They were exposed, captured, and are still being held prisoners in the US.
Next to the casa was a makeshift memorial to several Cuban agents who had snuck into the US and infiltrated an anti-Castro group in Florida. They were exposed, captured, and are still being held prisoners in the US.
We rode just a few more kilometers to our final destination, an outdoor bar and restaurant next to another Casa Particular’ where we would have lunch.
It was great spot just off the side of the road and a cold Crystal Beer tasted just about right on this hot day. After sucking a brew-ski down, we all stepped toward the rear of the bar, and walked down a short dirt road to the Casa Particular’. Casa Particular was the term given to homes where people have turned to making extra money by either renting out rooms, serving meals, or in some cases, doing both. Remember what I said earlier about the Cubans being ahead of the curve with Uber? Well they were just as advanced on the concept of Air B&Bs.
We had a great lunch of lobster, fish and prawns that really hit the spot.
We had a great lunch of lobster, fish and prawns that really hit the spot.
After leaving the casa, we headed further west toward Cienfuegos and to a botanical garden that was the oldest in Cuba. It was created in 1901and had thousands of plants and trees from all over the world.
Our tour guide in the gardens was a wonderful Cuban woman who spoke 3 languages as well as having an encyclopedic knowledge of the flora in the gardens.
Our tour guide in the gardens was a wonderful Cuban woman who spoke 3 languages as well as having an encyclopedic knowledge of the flora in the gardens.
With the tour concluded, we got back on the bus and headed toward Cienfuegos proper. In contrast to our lodging the night before, tonight’s hotel would be not only bare-bones and stark, but came with a rather unique history. It was called the Pasacaballos Hotel, and was built by the Russians in the early eighties. The building was originally a dormitory for Russian workers who were building a nuclear power plant nearby.
Unfortunately for the Russians, but fortunately for the Cubans, a little accident called Chernobyl occurred around this time. The plant being built in Cuba was based on the Chernobyl design and after the catastrophic accident, the Cubans promptly told the Russians, “Nyet!”
The building was totally Spartan and had all the charm and ambience of a substation station. Half of the fixtures didn’t work, but it did have a large outdoor pool, which we all invaded as soon as we tossed our bags into our rooms.
It was a salt-water pool, and I had been in them before. But the salinity was higher than the ocean we had just swam in yesterday, and my eyes were burning from irritation. Now I know what contact lenses feel like.
I got out and showered, noting that the towels in the room smelled like fish. Before dinner I took a short nap which felt heavenly.
Unfortunately for the Russians, but fortunately for the Cubans, a little accident called Chernobyl occurred around this time. The plant being built in Cuba was based on the Chernobyl design and after the catastrophic accident, the Cubans promptly told the Russians, “Nyet!”
The building was totally Spartan and had all the charm and ambience of a substation station. Half of the fixtures didn’t work, but it did have a large outdoor pool, which we all invaded as soon as we tossed our bags into our rooms.
It was a salt-water pool, and I had been in them before. But the salinity was higher than the ocean we had just swam in yesterday, and my eyes were burning from irritation. Now I know what contact lenses feel like.
I got out and showered, noting that the towels in the room smelled like fish. Before dinner I took a short nap which felt heavenly.
Our dinner tonight was at a rustic looking spot in town and we sat upstairs on a wooden patio deck. Afterward we took a short stroll around the neighborhood before driving back to the hotel and retiring to bed.
Drab Soviet construction or not, I was exhausted and fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.
More adventures tomorrow. Catch you on the flip side!!!
Drab Soviet construction or not, I was exhausted and fell asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.
More adventures tomorrow. Catch you on the flip side!!!